Life is a hike over Besseggen

Livet er som å gå Besseggen:
Syner som blankaste barndomsdagar
og kveldsfreden god etter fullførd vandring  
eller avgrunns djup
ventar deg etter som alt er laga...

Livet er som å gå mange Bessegger.
For livet er ein draum,
livet er ei rekkje draumar:
Du kan ferdast i lavande paradislundar
og vakne i gru på det ytste skjer;
du kan segle i svartnande vitlausfart
mot kimande, krasande undergangen
og vakne i skogsus på Fredens øy -
gong på gong...

Livet er blodig og sælt.
Sigrar og tap og nye planar -
nye Bessegger,
nye Bessegger.
Alle dine voner
kneggjar som hestar mot Jorsalferd
kvar gong, kvar gong...

Det er livet å gå Besseggen.

I don't think I should even attempt to translate the above poem by Ragnvald Skrede, which I have known and liked for years, and finally I understand why. As a short summary, it says that life is like a hike over Besseggen, which is a ridge in the mountainous Jotunheimen National Park area in Norway. The poem speaks about ups and downs, pleasant surprises and less pleasant ones; dreams, hopes - both those that come true and those that don't; all these ingredients of life, and supposedly elements of a hike over Besseggen...

For me the hike over Bessegen has been a long time dream, and as it was the case with the Trolltunga hike, it exceeded all my expectations. It is a truly breathtaking hike, and if you wish you can easily run it, as the course is very pleasant except for a short but very steep and narrow part (which is the actual Besseggen itself). For those who live in Bergen, the course can be compared to climbing Fløyen, hiking to Ulriken and decending. In fact, it is shorter and less demanding than that. But a million times more spectacular, and some parts that are infinitely more exciting and challenging - not your physical form but rather any potential anxiety of heights you might have.

The Besseggen ridge goes along the Gjende lake, which is at about 1000 meters above sea level. The highest point of the ridge is about 1750 meters, and just before the steepest climb to the top, there is the Bessvatn lake, which is separated from the Gjende lake about 400 meters below by a thin wall of rock. It is perhaps the most spectacular and the most well known scenery of the hike.

From there to the top is the narrowest and steepest part of the ridge which is slightly challenging for those with an anxiety for heights, but the ascent is very quick over big steps of rocks, and before you know it you are at the top. For me it was merely a flash of panic; I stayed very close to the steps of my friend Laila who was in front of me, and I asked Frank who was behind me to stay very close to me, and I kept my eyes on Laila's feet until the worst part was over, which lasted only a few minutes. The fact that you are climbing and need to concentrate on where to place your hands and feet makes it easier to ignore the steep cliffs on both sides of your feet.

The Besseggen hike goes between Gjendesheim and Memurubu, and you can do it in either direction. It is possible to drive all the way to Gjendesheim, and there is also public transport available. Then you can take the boat from Gjendesheim to Memurubu and hike back, or the other way round. We hiked from Memurubu to Gjendesheim, and I am really glad for it, as I think descending the steep and narrow part would be much less pleasant for me compared to climbing it. Since we had heard about the long queues for the boat at this time of the year, and blessed with like-minded friends, we arrived in Gjendesheim already at 7:15 in the morning, 45 minutes before the first scheduled boat. A very good idea indeed! Then we had time to use the bathrooms, visit the store, and still be among the first to board the boat. The boat got very quickly filled up, and departed 15 minutes before schedule, leaving many people behind for the next departure.

The weather was amazing for most part of the hike, and we had our lunch after the steep and narrow climb, and just before the highest point, in a sunny spot with no wind. At this point, I was thinking about the above poem, and thinking that there are really no downs or unpleasant surprises about Besseggen, only the thrill of the steep narrow climb, and otherwise just endless beauty and everything the nature can offer; flowers, glaciers, lakes, incredible views... On the way down, though, I understood a little bit more what Ragnar Skrede might have meant. By chance we looked back, and suddenly on the side there was a group of reindeer on a spot of snow!

We spent some time going close to them and taking pictures, and within 5 minutes the weather changed from sunny to heavy rain which then turned into hail. We descended quickly, and by the time we were down in Gjendesheim it was sunny and hot again, and we could enjoy a rest in the sun getting completely dried up, before getting in the car again. Thinking that Ragnar Skrede is from that area and might have done the hike many many times, I suppose he must have experienced many surprises like this, and perhaps worse ones, too... During and after this hike you cannot but contemplate, and it is in fact very natural to compare your Besseggen experience to your life in general; at least it was for me. I was also wondering why we waited so many years to do this. Of course it helps that our children are old enough to take care of themselves and on their way to leave home. And perhaps life at this point would have been less entertaining if all these wonderful things were already experienced at a younger age.

During the hike I was thinking that the course is perfect for a mountain race, and I was wondering why there is no Bessegen race. After coming home I found out that there is! It is even a very old race, organized in the 1960s, and then after a long break resumed again starting 2011. It is in the end of June every year; I am seriously considering it next year!

For this hike we were so lucky to have been offered accommodation in Breistølen by our friends from Melkesyre. Breistølen turned out to be a perfect base for hiking in Jotunheimen, and during three days there, we did three of the most spectacular hikes in Norway: Besseggen on Thursday, Glittertind on Friday, and Galdhøpiggen on Saturday. The latter two are the two highest mountains in Northern Europe, and they were incredible and breathtaking in each their unique way as well. Besseggen is perhaps my favorite among these three, though, as it offers such a huge variety of nature and views in a nutshell.

Hiking over Bessegen is the life.